The Proper Way to Eat a Sonora-Style Flour Tortilla Taco

A Q-and-A with Sonoratown co-owners Jennifer Feltham and Teo Rodriguez-Diaz

Sonoratown co-owners Jennifer Feltham and Teo Rodriguez-Diaz tell us what we need to know about the downtown taquería’s specialty: the Sonora-style flour tortilla taco.

There’s only a charcoal grill in your kitchen?

“Because of permitting, we could have only the grill and nothing else—no stove, flattop, fryer. That’s OK because the taco is the heart and soul of the menu, and the tacos are about the grilled meat, cut from short rib, seasoned only with salt, and finely diced so that there are lean bits and fatty bits with crispy charred stu that you get in a single bite.”

You don’t cook with anything else?

“We’re also allowed to use a rice cooker.”

Where do you get your mesquite charcoal?

“From a regular who has a company called Ay Carbon! They’re nice big chunks.”

How do you make the tortillas for your tacos?

“They’re about four inches across, give or take. We go by weight. We had to bring a special press from Mexico to make them, and they require a certain type of lard—it took a lot of research—so that they are diaphanous, ephemeral things, intended to be eaten right away.”