Remember foiemageddon or the foiepocalypse? You know, when the foodie sky fell on California and foie gras seemingly was banished foie-ever (sorry), until it wasn’t. The weeks leading up to the ban had restaurants in a foie frenzy, dreaming up all kinds of fantastical fatty goose and duck liver creations and then offering them during “Farewell to Foie Gras” dinners for panic-stricken foie gras lovers. This extravagant adieu dragged on for a while but reached a crescendo in foie gras’ final month. It seems almost like yesterday.
Now that the foie gras ban has been repealed and the rich French delicacy is back in restaurants all over Los Angeles, a sort of “Welcome Back, Foie Gras” comeback tour has taken hold at many popular dining establishments, from humble to high-end, around town. Here are seven spots that have enthusiastically embraced the return of foie gras.
L’Assiette: The intimate eatery on Melrose specializing in a four-hour sous-vide steak and frites tops its Rossini Steak Frites (named after the food loving composer Gioachino Antonio Rossini) with a medallion of creamy foie gras and black truffle shavings.
Maison Akira: At this French-Japanese concept in Pasadena, grilled duck foie gras on daikon confit with roasted pear in a port wine truffle sauce is truly a fusion of flavors.
Steak & Whisky: Hermosa Beach’s new steak hot spot brings seared foie gras accompaniments to 30-day aged steaks like the buff 22-ounce porterhouse, as well as the buttery Japanese Miyazaki wagyu.
Barton G.: The flamboyant West Hollywood “theatery” crafts a visually stimulating, sweet, and savory soy-marinated and coal-roasted 3 1/2 ounces of Hudson Valley foie gras. Adding to the art direction are accoutrements like squid ink and charcoal sourdough bread resembling charred logs.
Guerrilla Tacos: Even this popular taco truck is on board the foie wagon. Corn tortillas cradle fried foie gras and mingle with stewed oxtail juicy juices.
The Larchmont: French Laundry alum Kevin Kathman presents a classic torchon of foie gras inspired by another classic—the Manhattan cocktail. Marinated with Masterson’s 10 year-old Straight Rye Whiskey and served with bitter orange marmalade and Luxardo cherry gastrique, it’s a luxurious play on the drink.
Sushi Roku Pasadena: Foie sushi here means wrapping foie gras with shiso leaf and a piece of hamachi. Dress it all with black truffle oil, truffle, and gold flakes, and you’re rolling like a boss.
Check ahead to make sure the featured foie gras dish is being offered on the day you plan to visit.
L’Assiette, 7166 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, 323-274-2319
Maison Akira, 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626-796-9501
Steak & Whisky, 117 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310-318-5555
Barton G., 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-388-1888
Guerrilla Tacos, visit website for times and locations.
The Larchmont, 5750 Melrose Ave., Larchmont, 323-464-4277
Sushi Roku, 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626-683-3000