Where to Eat Now: Power Ranking New L.A. Restaurants, 7/22

Get your fill of this week’s dining buzz
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Each Friday, the Digest surveys the burgeoning L.A. restaurant scene and compiles a list of the newest, most hyped and heralded restaurants in town this instant. Whether big or small, near or far, these are the restaurants that have people talking—us among them. Snag a seat at these hotspots while you still can.


1. 71 Above
Almost every restaurant in L.A. suffers from the same problem: They’re all too low to the ground. Situated in the U.S. Bank Tower 950 feet above the streets of Downtown, fine-dining newcomer 71 Above doesn’t have to worry about that. Chef Vartan Abgaryan—formerly of Cliff’s Edge—is heading up the kitchen and churning a three-course prix-fixe menu ($70) that might start on oysters with uni and caviar and finish on a prime rib-eye flavored with black garlic miso. From the massive banquettes to the gold-decked decor, everything about this place screams “IMPRESSIVE.” Sorry about the all-caps, but this is an all-caps kind of place. 633 W. 5th Street, Downtown, 213-712-2683 or 71above.com

2. Gwen
Everyone’s favorite Australian celebu-stud, Curtis Stone, and his brother Luke have finally opened Gwen, the meaty sibling to Stone’s Beverly Hills produce shrine, Maude. Those lucky enough to secure a reservation via Tock ($190 a pair) can experience a set tasting menu that kicks off with rotating housemade charcuterie, seasonal salads, and a fresh pasta preparation, and winds up with what they’re calling the “main event,” which is usually some massive whole animal (lamb, perchance?) broken down into all sorts of preparations. If you feel like getting extra fancy you can supplement the meal with a giant dry-aged rib eye or hunk of Blackmore wagyu. Because this is Hollywood. 6600 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323-946-7512, gwenla.com.

3. Here’s Looking At You
Koreatown just scored its most ambitious (and certainly buzziest) restaurant since the minute vegetable-fest known as Le Comptoir. The food from chef Jonathan Whitener and Lien Ta is decidedly not Korean. In fact, the menu goes from nectarines with Syrian feta, pigweed, and sumac, to cured salmon with aleppo, raspberry, and chicharron, to smoked Cornish hen with apple and, er, blood. (Hey, it’s on the menu.) Cocktails like the Tropical Medicine with roasted pineapple infused Johnnie Walker should help you go with the flow. 3901 W. 6th St., Koreatown, 213-568-3573 or hereslookingatyoula.com.

4. Erven
After the sudden closing of K-Town’s Saint Martha and a brief stint at Fundamental, this will be check Nick Erven’s third restaurant in the past year. But neither of those spots had his name on the signage, so let’s hope this one is a bit more permanent. Erven is serving an all-day, all-plant-based menu, which means inventive sandwiches like fried cauliflower with pickled raisins at lunch, and dinner will feature some more globally inspired veggie dishes like green tomato and heart of palm pozole. It’s about damn time a restaurant not called Crossroads started doing some ambitious plant-based food. 514-516 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310-260-2255 or ervenrestaurant.com

5. Mardi
Whenever you see Kris Tominaga’s name attached to a restaurant—like The Hart & the Hunter and Cadet—you know there’s going to be some tasty food. Mardi, the new restaurant tucked into Palihouse’s gorgeous courtyard, follows that line. The larger-format entrees, such as a slab of schnitzel-ed headcheese decked out with grape radishes and aioli sing, but don’t neglect the lighter options like roast carrots with sesame date butter. Palihouse, 8465 Holloway Drive, 323-656-4020 or mardirestaurant.com.

6. Salazar
It’s been almost a year since we first noticed a little taco spot opening in a former auto body shop on the edge of up-and-coming Frogtown. It’s finally here, and so far the only thing up in the air is if it’s more of a destination for its Sonoran-style grilled meats, its wines, craft beers, and cocktails made for patio pounding, or its palm-shaded terrace. The man behind the wood-fire grill is none other than Mexicali co-owner Esdras Ochoa. Co-owner Billy Silverman was hoping to capture a bit of that Austin outdoor vibe, and threw in plenty of loungey seating and fire pits to encourage lingering. 2490 Fletcher Dr., Frogtown.

7. Shibumi
It does exist! The first plans for the restaurant were unveiled almost a year ago, and, finally, this chic Kappo-style joint is open downtown. Chef David Schlosser, who used to be the private chef to an American ambassador in Japan and also did a stint at Urasawa here in L.A., is making waves with dishes like crispy-fried monkfish karaage and wasabi-crusted wagyu. 815 S. Hill St., Downtown, 213-265-7923.

8. The Cannibal
The anchor restaurant has dropped at Platform in Culver City. The Cannibal, a New York transplant that focuses on butchery, craft beer, and cycling (??) is officially open for dinner serving creative twists on charcuterie classics like matcha chicken liver mousse and a cochinita pibil-inspired head cheese. Or, during the daytime, stop by the butcher counter for lunch to grab meaty sandwiches like the pig’s head cuban and spicy meatball with kimchi marinara. Don’t forget the housemade chicharrones. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310-838-2783.

9. Sawyer
Silver Lake has got it good these days, what with a new 365 Market by Whole Foods and this pretty new seafood destination opening in the same week. The enterprise comes from Beau Laughlin, former head of Cardiff Giant Hospitality, which brought us such spots as the Churchill and the Hudson, as well as partners Brett Cranston and Jay Milliken. Here, things are focused squarely on the food, which skews pan-coastal and comes from chef Alex McWilliams and sous chef Joel Weidl (formerly of Egg in Brooklyn). Expect soft shell crab sandwiches on black bread, salt cod brandade, sweet corn and razor clam chowder, and skate wing with yam fries—so yeah, seafood. Brunch will launch soon, and there’s a Clover juice bar from the same gang right nextdoor. 3709 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323-641-3709.

10. Howlin Ray’s
It’s one of the hottest restaurants in town. Get it? Hottest? Like, hottest. It’s a double-meaning, because they serve Nashville hot chicken, but they’re also massively popular. Ahhhh, you guys get it. Dad jokes aside, chef Johnny Ray Zone’s chicken shack has had massive lines snaking throughout Chinatown’s Far Eat Plaza ever since the doors opened, proving that the Music City magic has only increased since he parked the food truck for good. 727 N. Broadway #128, Chinatown, 213-935-8399.

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