The Restaurant: Kobawoo House (698 S. Vermont Ave. Ste 109, Koreatown, 213-389-7300)
Napa Cabbage and Daikon
In Korean ssam means “wrapping.” Here, leaves of crisp napa cabbage or thin slices of pickled daikon are meant to be filled with meat and kimchi to form mini tacos.
Sweet and Spicy Kimchi
Few Korean meals arrive without the requisite kimchi. Shredded radish is marinated with fiery gochuchang chili, shrimp, and hot mustard.
Salted Baby Shrimp
These tiny crustaceans are made into a briny, funky spread. A little goes a long way when added to your pork wraps.
Steamed Pork Belly
Kobawoo was serving pork belly years before the “nose to tail” trend. Thick slices are seasoned with soy and steamed until they’re tender.
Photograph courtesy Jason Lee