How to Make Really, Really Good Pizza at Home, According to a Pro

Crust guru Noel Brohner of Slow Rise Pizza shares some invaluable pointers

Looking to cook up some primo pizza at home? Here, Brohner shares a few tips for doughing it yourself.

Track Everything

Brohner remembers giving Bestia chef Ori Menashe some simple advice: Use a thermometer. He also suggests using a stopwatch, getting a scale, and keeping a “dough journal” detailing everything you did, the precise conditions, and how the pizza turned out. That’s how you can best get an idea of what truly works. “The recipe is the constant,” Brohner says. “The problem people have is managing the things that change.”

Use Your Hands

Even if you have a professional mixer, your dough will improve if you finish it with your hands. “Artisan baking is a craft just like carpentry is a craft,” Brohner says. “A lot of what’s going on is hand feel. Removing the technology means the baker gets to insert his own feel.”

Take It Slow

“I always say if you’re hungry and want a pizza, make yourself a quesadilla,” Brohner says. Slowly fermenting dough using cold water or refrigeration yields the best taste and texture. Depending on the style of pizza you’re making, you want to let dough rise anywhere from 8 to 96 hours.

Forget Perfection

Don’t fret about making a perfectly round pie; overworking dough can yield a chewy, flavorless pizza. “The ugliest dough makes the best pizza,” Brohner says.

Want more? Sign up for Brohner’s classes at

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