Since they became parents, chef Michelle Wilton and her husband Corey Wilton have discovered a downside of dining out. “Usually places with really great food aren’t child accommodating,” Michelle says. “So we wanted to create a space that had really delicious food and is accommodating to children.”
On Wednesday they launched Piencone Pizzeria, Creamery, and Pub on Colorado Boulevard in Eagle Rock, just a block and a half east of their current operation, Four Café. The three-in-one family-friendly eatery inhabits a bright, sprawling five-room, 4,500 square foot space designed by Melissa Ritchie. For adults, there’s beer, wine, and craft cocktails to enjoy in a cozy pub headed by partner/bar manager Herb Gualpa. For families, a patio with a playhouse, oversized Jenga and other games awaits. The full food and drink menu is available throughout, and pizzas and ice cream can also be taken to go.
Kids or none, Piencone is worth a visit for Michelle’s homemade pizza and ice cream. “The dough is leavened with my sourdough starter. There’s no commercial yeast in it. It’s just a wild cultured starter that I’ve been obtaining for a couple years now and before that someone had it for many many more years,” she explains. “I have a custom blend of five different organic flours from Central Milling Farm. They’re in central California and in Utah and it’s a unique custom blend that I just discovered by trial and error.”
“It’s a concoction that she’s been working on for about nine months now and refining in our own backyard wood fired oven,” says Corey. The result is a soft, doughy, slightly charred crust topped with elevated ingredients. “The cheeses are what you would find on a really great cheese plate,” Michelle says.
The Honey Pot, for example, is a pleasant combination of creamy Cacio de Roma sheep’s milk cheese, bitter spigarello greens, and salty salami Americano, all drizzled with sweet fermented Aleppo honey; it’s already a crowd favorite. The Cauli Dreamin is topped with cauliflower, bechamel, green olives, garlic, breadcrumbs, Grana Padano, and the Beer Baron comes with beer-braised leeks, raclette, La Quercia pancetta, and satina potatoes.
Michelle’s ice cream is made from scratch with organic milk, cream, and eggs, and is pasteurized in-house in a 15-gallon vat pasteurizer. The flavors will change seasonally, but currently guests can try vegan passion fruit coconut sorbet, Meyer lemon buttermilk, vegan Mexican hot chocolate, brown butter lavender, vanilla bean, sesame caramel, chocolate hazelnut, and maple with brown sugar pop tart.
“I’m a fan of our brown butter lavender,” Michelle says. “I take butter and I brown it with lavender petals and then I infuse that into the milk before I make the base. That one is really yummy.”
Stay on top of the latest in L.A. food and culture. Sign up for our newsletters today.