Very few restaurants have the restraint to serve only one dish, but that’s precisely what L’Assiette on Melrose plans to do when they open tomorrow. In addition to the single dish—a classic French steak frites—a two course offering ($25) includes the choice of sorrel soup or salad and baguette. Cheese and dessert (macarons and other pastries) are available for an additional charge.
Why the sole main course? It’s father and son team Jacques and Marc Fiorentino’s definition of the quintessential French dish. They mirrored L’Assiette and its signature plate on their memories of eating at Le Relais de Venise, Marc’s favorite Parisian restaurant.
The 50-seat space was designed to look like a modern brasserie by Jeremy Baker and Lauren Adams of Letter Four. A wall of wine bottles emphasizes the length of the wine and beer list—there’s more than one bottle on offer!
But can owners Fiorentino and partner Mary Anne Reyes continue to offer only one dish as the restaurant ages? The Phoenix on La Cienega tried it with a similar plate of meat and potatoes, but has since expanded their menu. Then there’s Pa Ord, which originally specialized in Thai boat noodles, but now has two locations and over 40 menu items. Even the city’s simplest ramen shops offer half a dozen varieties. Aside from small pastry shops like Sprinkles Cupcakes and Le Mervetty, the one dish wonder has yet to catch on.
L’Assiette opens for dinner tomorrow, March 20 and will serve seven days a week from 5:30 p.m. until midnight.
L’Assiette, 7166 Melrose Ave., Melrose, 323-274-2319 or lassiettesteakfrites.com.