North African Tacos Are Here to Stay in L.A.

Chef Farid Zadi’s Revolutionario pop-up goes brick-and-mortar in Jefferson Park

Just a little over a year ago, after establishing himself in L.A.’s fine dining scene, chef Farid Zadi surprised us all with his short-lived taco pop-up called Revolutionario, featuring his North African flavors on a tortilla. After a few delays, a permanent outpost opened this past Saturday afternoon (with just a simple Facebook post announcing the debut). In keeping with the Revolutionario spirit, Zadi and his wife and business partner, Susan Park, are doing things their way—just your average neighborhood no-frills, family-run North African taqueria.

Revolutionario serves tacos, burritos, and plates of North African stews and braises, like tender chunks of smoky lamb, stewed vegetable, and black-eyed pea falafel. Similar to Brazilian acarajé without the dendê oil, the falafel are served on yellow or blue corn tortillas. Zadi has created an affordable, quick-service restaurant that balances convenience with a creative and tasty menu. Plus, what other taqueria has laffa wraps?

Speaking of tasty items you won’t find at your average neighborhood taqueria, Zadi has fashioned a convex griddle with an upside-down wok for making saj, a delicious flatbread that serves as Revolutionario’s homemade Bedouin tortillas. North African tacos are here to stay, and rather than try to wrap your head around the idea, better to wrap a tortilla around it, and by midbite, you’ll understand with complete clarity.

redarrowRevolutionario, 1436 W Jefferson Bl., Jefferson Park, 424-223-3526