Must Taste: 25 Layers of Pork at Kimukatsu

Changing up the cutlet game.

Have you not yet been to Kimukatsu? It’s OK, we won’t tell. Just make sure you remedy that this weekend. The newest restaurant at the mod Culver Crossroads shopping center on Washington and Sepulveda, which is part of a chain based in Japan, softly opened last month.

Kimukatsu’s signature dish reinvents the humble pork cutlet—a flattened, breaded piece of meat. Instead of pounding and tenderizing a single piece of meat, the exacting chefs behind Kimukatsu pound and flatten 25 separate layers of pork, stack them, fold them, flip it, and reverse it. And then, they bread and fry each bundle until the rough exterior panko breading crisps and the fatty interior nearly melts. If they didn’t already serve it cut into sixths, it would yield to the edge of dull spoon. Or, say, your black lacquered chopsticks.

Despite its makings, this neat bundle of meat is somehow light. Dredge each piece gently in the accompanying ponzu sauce and marvel at how the tart flavors of the sauce soften the richness of the pork. Have a bit of the fresh and floral rice, dip into the bright and light cabbage slaw. Sip an iced green tea (made with matcha) on the side, and forget about the hard week before and hard week ahead. This cutlet, it’s your cue to take it easy., 4130 Sepulveda Blvd., Culver City, 310-876-1436.