Mozza Goes Cali?


I had lunch at Pizzeria Mozza on Saturday for the first time in almost a year and was taken aback by one of the newer (as in, sometime in the last six months) additions to the menu: Pizza alla Benno. This oven-crisped creation is topped with pineapple, speck, and jalapeño peppers. Say wha? I regularly order a similar pie from Garage Pizza in Silver Lake. Did you hear that Mario? Silver Lake! What gives?

Don’t get me wrong. I’m a big fan of pineapple on pizza, and I like anything with jalapeños (really, it’s kinda gross what I’ll put them on). But I found this combo out of place on a menu that’s written in Italian and boasts pizzas with white anchovies, bagna cauda, and house-made guanciale. This sounds more like a glorified Hawaiian pizza—you know, the one made famous alongside the Whack-A-Mole at Chuck-E-Cheeses nationwide. Has Mozza gone CPK on us? What’s next—BBQ chicken? I’m still reeling from the debate over whether Mozza’s pies are pizza at all—now this?

So, of course, I ordered it. It was, of course, wonderful. The pineapple is sliced super thin and baked to a candy-like consistency. The speck comes salty and super thick and the fresh jalapeños left me panting. It’s easily one of my new favorites (the aforementioned white anchovy and red chile pizza being my number one). But I’ll be keeping an eye on the menu from now on—if I spot an avocado anywhere near that place, I’m telling.