Don’t call it a steak house. Sugarfish cofounder Jerry Greenberg’s new Matū in Beverly Hills, opening July 8, is a different kind of beef-forward restaurant. All of the meat is sustainably raised, beautifully marbled, omega-3-rich, grass-fed Wagyu from First Light Farms in New Zealand (which Greenberg co-owns). The main event is a a five-course beef tasting.
“We wouldn’t do this if we didn’t feel that this beef is more healthful than the alternatives and regenerative for the planet,” says Greenberg, adding, “We’re putting it in a format that you haven’t really had before.”
The tasting will include dishes like bone broth, carpaccio, thinly sliced filet mignon that’s been quickly seared on a plancha, comforting braised beef cheeks, and, to cap things off, steaks cooked over a wood-burning, Argentinian-style grill and served family-style.
“The idea of giving people a little bit of an exploration of beef, where they can experience different cuts of meat that are cooked differently, was unbelievably attractive to us,” Greenberg says.
Steaks at Matū are cooked to “warm red,” which is the color of rare but the temperature of medium rare. There’s a nice sear on the outside, and the inside is remarkably tender and deeply beefy. “You want to end at the temperature where the fat has melted but the protein structure hasn’t tightened,” says Greenberg, who has thought so intensely about the science that he can explain how the fat in grass-fed Wagyu renders at a lower temperature than the fat in grain-fed beef. “The center needs to be warm, but you don’t want the edges dried and tough.”
Steaks can also be ordered à la carte and cooked to your preference—to some degree. Greenberg’s Sugarfish is known for its “Trust Me” menu that puts control in the hands of the chef, and Greenberg wants diners to trust the kitchen at Matū as well. To that end, if you want a well-done steak, you’ll have to go elsewhere.
“When we cook it a lot more,” Greenberg says, “it’s not something we can stand behind.”
Matū, 239 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills.
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