L.A.’s Best Dish of 2022

Thee miso-baked bone marrow at n/soto, a modern izakaya in West Adams, has the kind of show-stopping flavor that lingers on your palate and in your mind

A collaboration with head chef Yoji Tajima, the dish consists of a sweet, caramelized piece of bone marrow plated beside rice with umeboshi, or pickled Japanese plum. It’s served with a spoon, and diners are instructed to scoop out the marrow and follow it with a bit of rice and pickled plum.

The wedge-shaped rice ball is made of a mix of cooked Japanese short-grain rice, umeboshi, bonito flakes, and soy sauce. It’s then formed into a triangle, or onigiri, and grilled until golden.

The chef spreads a mixture of sake kasu (sake cream), a blend of red and white miso paste called awase miso, sugar, mirin, and sake onto the bone marrow before it’s cooked to a glistening caramel color.

This bright-pink garnish of red onion pickled in red wine vinegar serves as a kushi naoshi (palate cleanser) after the rich bone marrow and rice.

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