There’s something about La Tostaderia that has become quite familiar in Los Angeles: creating a single item concept from foods not usually found in restaurants. In Mexico, tostadas are served at cevicherias, street carts, and other types of Mexican seafood restaurants, and while chef Sandra Felix offers tacos, soups, aguachiles and giant bowls of cocteles, the heaping seafood tostadas are the main draw at La Tostaderia.
The tostadas might feature large pieces of shrimp marinated in citrus or sake poached octopus, and they’re representative of Felix’s depth of cooking experience. Where else are you going to find rice wine-poached seafood on a tortilla? The heaping bowl of crab soup looked amazing and warrants a trip back real soon, as do the quality fish tacos.
Outside of the solid carnitas from Felix’s partner, Fernando Villagomez (he’s at one of Grand Central Market’s pre-makeover stands, carnitas specialist, Las Morelianas) tacos have not been an attraction at the GCM for this reporter. But Felix’s tacos are a stylish Mexican-American version on corn tortillas with some attractive flares like matchstick cut vegetables and cheffed-up sauces. The fish taco, something I wouldn’t normally consider except at a traditional stand, is made with beer battered black cod, a crunchy slaw, chipotle aioli, and an avocado puree on a corn tortilla.
The coleslaw blends several popular fish taco elements: shredded cabbage, mayo and some acid that combines beautifully with the crispy black cod. The La Tostaderia—you just made it cool to eat tacos again in the GCM.
La Tostaderia, Grand Central Market, 317 S Broadway, Downtown LA, (213) 624-2378