Pete’s, chef Josef Centeno’s makeover of Downtown’s old Pete’s Cafe, is no more.
Centeno has just renamed the restaurant Ledlow Swan and posted a sample dinner menu that largely skews away from the classic American bistro dishes that he opened Pete’s with in October. Instead of his riffs on Waldorf salad, shrimp Newburg, and steak entrecote, the new menu lists dishes like an autumn vegetable crudite, a grilled seafood cocktail, and braised beef shoulder with cream of wheat and kumquat. It sounds like the kind of playful and assertive food that has made Centeno the dominant restaurant operator in Downtown’s Old Bank District.
Centeno still seems interested in reinterpreting some old favorites: The Ledlow Swan menu has Caesar and wedge salads, as well as moules frites and shrimp and grits. But chalkboard specials on the posted menu resemble the kind of all-over-the-map, often vegetable-heavy small plates that Centeno is known for at Bäco Mercat. There’s a fried butterball potato dish, grilled puntarelle and uni, a dry-farmed persimmon salad, and a caramelized sunchoke remoulade along with meatballs in cream, beef tongue and apple, and a porchetta sandwich with fries.
The restaurant is already answering its phone as Ledlow Swan.
Ledlow Swan, 400 S. Main Street., Los Angeles, 213-687-7015