José Andrés isn’t a man who wastes time. On the afternoon that foie gras became legal again in California, the chef tweeted that The Bazaar at SLS would serve free foie gras cotton candy the next day.
So, of course, this year’s edition of the annual Black Truffle Dinner Series at Saam, the tasting room nestled inside The Bazaar, includes a mini foie gras tasting in its 16 courses.
The special dinner, during which each table gets their own black truffle (foraged by Truffle Brothers Michael and Marco Pietroiacovo in Abruzzo, Italy) to be shaved over the various dishes, started last night and is available every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday through February 28. During the round of small, eat-with-your-hand items that open the meal, diners get a bite-size foie gras and truffle slider. About halfway through the tasting menu, there’s a “foie gras floating island” that’s a savory, decadent soup enhanced by tiny pieces of crunchy corn nuts. A few courses later is foie and mushroom en papilotte, an earthy, gamy, fragrant present waiting to be unwrapped.
Beyond the foie, Andrés and chef de cuisine Holly Jivin are celebrating truffles in dishes like Black Breakfast with a twice-spherified egg yolk, a creamy bacon sauce that might have you wanting to lick the plate, sauteed trumpet mushrooms, lightly dehydrated and deep-fried piquillo peppers, and toasted pan de cristal. The uni pasta with black truffle air and the final savory dish, sous vide ibérico pork cheeks with polenta gnocchi, pork jus, and maitake mushrooms, take the high-wire act even higher.
If you’re careful with your truffle, you might have some left to shave over dessert, like a plate of greek-yogurt ice cream, praline, and warm chocolate that goes to another level when you start painting it black.
The Black Truffle Dinner Series at Saam, 456 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, 310-246-