We just couldn’t pick between these classic and nouveau versions of the soothing French staple. Here’s a side-by-side comparison to help you choose which sounds best to you.
OLD SCHOOL
Le Petit Bistro
631 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood
Cheese: A lid of ooey-gooey torched Gruyère
Bread: The usual—crusty French, thinly sliced
Broth: One ladleful of caramelized onions in beef stock
Vessel: A small, no-frills, vintage brown crock
NEW SCHOOL
Bottega Louie
700 S. Grand Ave., downtown
Cheese: Browned and bubbly mozzarella and provolone
Bread: Toasted ciabatta, cut an inch thick
Broth: Onions and chicken stock enriched with marsala
Vessel: A lion’s head bowl dripping with fromage
Illustration by Alice Tait
