Photograph by Jessica Boone
The smoke from Bonano’s behemoth wood-fired oven penetrates the crisped skin on these Peruvian-style chickens. The french fries heaped alongside have never seen a freezer. Those sauces? Every one is house made. The juicy, downright messy birds warrant a trip to Northridge, but you’ll be missing out if you ignore the rest of the tiny restaurant’s disproportionately large menu. Lightly marinated ceviches, tart chorros con salsa (mussels), and a whole seco de cordero (lamb shank) braised in dark beer and cilantro illustrate why Peru’s cuisine has suddenly captured the hearts of gourmands worldwide. Wash it down with chicha morada, a fermented drink made from purple corn. 8363 Reseda Blvd., 818-775-1373.