Coin de Rue, chef David Féau’s pop-up collaboration with Adam Fleischman in the former Red Medicine space, launched last Thursday and will serve its generous four-course, $55 prix-fixe menu on Thursdays through Saturdays until the end of the month. Féau, best known for his four-star stint at The Royce at Pasadena’s Langham hotel, is putting his own twist on classic French bistro cuisine at Coin de Rue with bright, seasonal dishes that aren’t doused in butter or lard.
He’s relying on strongly flavored ingredients like horseradish, which shows up on a plate of candied carrots and also a crispy buckwheat roll that’s topped by smoked yellowfin tuna tartare (the kind of creative spin the chef likes to put on bistro staples). But, of course, this is a French restaurant, so foie gras is available on both the bar menu and as a supplement to dinner.
In addition to the small bites that allow guests to have a quick snack of beef tongue tartine or rabbit terrine, the well-balanced cocktails by Cody Summers and Hector “La Aguilla” Lopez help make Coin de Rue feel like a restaurant in full. Drink The Rebel, with duck fat-washed cognac, local orgeat, and cherry-soaked antique bitters for a sweet and savory start to a limited-run meal that might turn into a daily production.
Fleischman, who was on the premises happily eating the entire menu on Friday, still has the lease on the space. While he has a lot on his plate, from Smoke.Oil.Salt to Tacoteca to reopening ChocoChicken, he told us that there’s room for a French restaurant in his portfolio. A friend who tried the Coin de Rue food had paid Fleischman and Féau the highest compliment, saying that it tasted and felt like dining in Paris. Fleischman smiled when he told us this, looking like a man with big plans.
Coin de Rue, 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-943-9650