We Found the Best Po’ Boy in L.A.

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The Gumbo Mumbo sandwich at the Orleans & York Deli is as much an achievement in architecture as a marvel of taste. Shrimp, chicken, ground sirloin, sliced beef hot links, onions, and bell peppers are tossed in a vinegary sauce and—through some miracle of physics or perhaps sheer force of will—held together by two firm hunks of house-baked bread. It’s less a sandwich and more a soulful stew precariously bound in starch, seeping harmonious notes of acid and heat. Napkins are mandatory.

 

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