From the best batter this side of Baja to branzino, these fresh takes on an L.A. staple tip the scales.
For this Yucatan-inspired spot’s Baja fish taco (above), chef Gilberto Cetina
often sources Baja kanpachi, a sustainably produced amberjack from Omega Blue
Seafood. “It’s the type of farmed fish we should be eating,” he says. 3655 S. Grand Ave., Ste. C9, Exposition Park.
This social-justice-focused North African spot’s fish tacos are braised in
shakshouka and spiced with green harissa (many others like them are fried).
“Braising or stewing fish is a common North African technique,” says chef Farid Zadi.
1436 W. Jefferson Blvd., Exposition Park.
The eponymous Ricky (Piña) and his fedora have been fixtures of the L.A. food-truck scene since 2009. Fans love his perfectly crispy batter, which is a family recipe. 3061 Riverside Dr., Griffith Park.
At $5 a pop, Escuela’s tacos are pricier than those from a truck. But you can’t sit comfortably at a table or BYOB while you bite into a crispy-skinned morsel of fancy fish at a truck, can you? 7615 Beverly Blvd., Fairfax District.