Let go of any misgivings you have about buffets: the steaming vats, grisly carving stations, hepatitis C. TRES BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS at SLS Beverly Hills pulls off a $42 brunch spread without a lick of ick. Andrés’s approach might best be called minimalist. Quail eggs accompany sliced-on-demand Russ & Daughters smoked salmon. Crab claws are paired with butter foam. Flan comes in a golden eggshell cup, sending you off on an AYCE high.