It’s been a minute since I last featured Guerrilla Tacos on Essential T, which is remarkable because I could dedicate this entire column to the weekly gems that show up on chef Wes Avila’s menus. Guerrilla Tacos has evolved since my first visit back in November 2012, about a month after the launch of the street cart in front of what used to be Handsome Coffee Roasters in the Arts District. After some rat called the health department on Avila, he quickly jumped into the Guerrilla Tacos truck, which now rivals the best restaurants in Los Angeles. Yes, the best.
Guerrilla Tacos menu items are market-driven, featuring such items as sea urchin, bloody clams, chocolate clams, and–ever since the previously outlawed fatty liver was once again legal to serve in California–foie gras. While some Mexican-American truck operators cry foul about Avila’s ingredients, I merely turn their attention to stands and trucks like Mariscos Ruben in Tijuana, and Ensenada’s La Guerrerense, to see some of these luxury products in action. While foie gras might raise some eyebrows, it is also just another offal menu item, and Mexico has a spectrum of offal tacos. The livers of various animals can be had throughout the Republic and here in L.A.
On the day I ordered a foie gras taco, Avila was serving oxtail and foie tacos–because he changes the menu daily, the foie gras offerings can vary. When I visited, Avila was out of oxtail, so I received a taco full of fried foie gras in a coating of stewed oxtail juices that soaked into the tortilla–pure offal elegance. Liver tacos are delicious in Mexico, in the Tepito neighborhood of Mexico City or the central market in Aguascalientes, and now in Los Angeles at Guerrilla Tacos, where curbside dining is a swanky affair.
Guerrilla Tacos, check the website for locations and hours.