Illustration by Nigel Buchanan
Kitschy food—truffle fries, Kobe sliders, and pastrami lox. That kind of gimmicky cooking is condescending, especially to Southern Californians, who are incredibly savvy. Produce is like a birthright here. You grow up knowing what great ingredients are all about. You know quality. As a veteran of New York City’s three Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, how does L.A.’s fine-dining scene stack up? That culture still has a long way to go. But I don’t want to try and bring New York fine dining or Paris fine dining here. With time I want to help carve out exactly what fine dining in L.A. means. I don’t even think Angelenos know yet. But anyone who says this city doesn’t have incredible food is sorely mistaken.
Fifty Seven, 712 S. Santa Fe Ave., Downtown, fiftysevenla.com.