Do the Twist: From Stiletto Sandals to Salads and Sandwiches

How a shoe maven got into the cafe business. Plus: a source for preserved lemons.

Here’s an L.A. story for the food world: Joelle Bercovitch spent the last twenty years helping her father, Charles Malka, start and expand their Charles David shoe empire. This year, she’s leaving the stilettos behind for kitchen clogs. Her new bakery and cafe, Twist Eatery, opened last month on La Brea, and has been doing a brisk business in Mediterranean-style breakfast and lunch ever since.

“My favorite type of shoe is probably a tall, sexy sandle… or maybe a classic riding boot,” says Bercovitch, still clearly familiar with the ins and outs of the shoe business. But when it comes to food, Bercovitch has done her homework too. She’s partnered with chef Anna Statman (Towne & Country Cafe, Silver Lake) to develop Twist’s simple menu. The pair spent the last two years test-tasting recipes in Bercovitch’s Beverly Hills’ home.

Since she was born in Moracco, preserved lemons are near and dear to Joelle’s heart. At Twist, she’s bottled her recipe into a pucker-worthy preserve. The tart lemons are featured in several dishes on the menu, including a Tunisian tuna salad with preserved-lemon caesar dressing. But they’re also sold by the jar. Great in salads, sandwiches, stews, with grilled meats, marinades, and cocktails, they might just be the quintessential summer condiment. Twist Eatery, 344 S. La Brea, Los Angeles, CA. (323) 938-9478,