L.A. has become such a great city for brunch. So many of our top restaurants have gotten into the game, augmenting the usual suspects: upscale hotels, pricey restaurants in places like Beverly Hills, and trendy beach spots. What’s definitely missing is place for a quality Mexican brunch in Los Angeles. In Mexico, it’s just as popular to hit the afternoon buffets throughout Mexico in restaurants and hotels.
Enter chef Rocio Camacho, whose cooking has been much celebrated for her classy Oaxacan cuisine and regional Mexican dishes served with excellent tortillas—or so we hear. Rocio’s Moles de Los Dioses is now serving a classic Mexican Sunday brunch that’s reasonably priced at $14.99, but if you arrive at the beginning of service, at 10 a.m., it’s only $9.99.
Dishes made especially for the Sunday brunch include a tangy, spicy chile verde with cactus and cheese; chile rellenos floating in tomato soup (this is worth the trip alone), and you can always count on a mole—Camachos’s famous cloth-stainer mole was available on the day I went.
It’s early on a Sunday and you’ll want to get in as many tastes as possible, so let’s talk about the game plan. Start with some pan dulce, a pot of coffee, and slices of papaya, watermelon, and pineapple dressed with a couple of shakes of pico de gallo, or spicy fruit condiment—for the genuine fruit cart flavor. Next up: a plate of chilaquiles, or maybe chorizo with eggs. Then, hit the guisados: moles, Yucatan-style cochinita pibil, red menudo, albondigas, tortitas de papa (potato discs) in green chile and a side of white rice and refried beans.
The menu changes each week, but don’t worry—this is a brunch you can afford as often as you can make it to Sun Valley, where the early bird gets the gusano (worm, or grub in a mezcal bottle)!
Brunch is served on Sundays from 10 a.m. until 3 p.m.; the Early Bird Special runs from 10 a.m. until 11 a.m.
Rocio’s Mole de Los Dioses, 8255 Sunland Blvd., Sun Valley, 818-252-6415 or moleofthegods.com.