Remember the debut of Dominique Ansel’s Cronut in 2013? Well, L.A.’s got a “new” must-eat dessert mashup that can go toe-to-toe on innovation and decadence.
Churro Borough, which officially opens at noon in Los Feliz tomorrow, Friday, April 17, serves chef Sylvia Yoo’s churro ice cream sandwiches. Each one is made to order, with the hand-piped churro “caps,” which mold so amiably to the ice cream inside, fried up right before serving.
Yoo’s creation rocketed to fame when it was written up by Chow.com last summer and the accompanying pictures made dessert lovers all over swoon. This led to manic hours-long waits as Churro Borough’s growing fan base followed Yoo from festival to festival.
Like many exciting chefs breaking out onto the scene, Yoo, a native Angeleno, started her career-changing venture as a side project. Yoo, whose culinary background includes training stints at New York’s WD-50 and Jean-Georges, was still working as a full-time interior architect when she came up with the churro ice cream sandwich. She credits her inspiration for the incredible treat to her childhood jaunts to amusement parks and their ubiquitous churro stands. Those memories, coupled with her design background, set it all in motion.
“With anything in design, when you combine contrasting textures, colors, and temperatures, it’s going to elicit something good,” she says.
Churro Borough, on Los Feliz’s busy, pedestrian-heavy section of Vermont Avenue, has already attracted a diverse crowd during its soft opening week. On a balmy night, a Latino family was divvying up a chile mango paleta and a churro ice cream sandwich, Los Feliz professionals happily battled the melting custardy ice cream, and Asian foodies took gratuitous pictures. (OK, maybe that was me on my second classic combo of churro and the to-die-for vanilla custard ice cream sandwich, and I don’t usually like vanilla.)
The mottled black, gray, and yellow murals of street artist Hueman also drew in locals who gazed with wonderment at the ice cream counter and its rainbow of seasonal paletas aglow.
Churro Borough is soft-open from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. tonight and will be open until 11 p.m. tomorrow.