David Féau has kept himself busy with his fun, inventive Coin de Rue pop-ups this year, but now the French-born chef has landed firmly at Beverly Hills restaurant and wine shop Wally’s Wine and Spirits. It couldn’t be a better fit for either one of them.
In Chinatown, Féau was serving East-West dishes like clay-pot Alaskan halibut and foie gras forbidden rice lettuce rolls. Before that, he took over the Red Medicine kitchen and gave hungry diners crispy buckwheat roll with yellowfin tartare, caramelized pig’s feet with celeriac slaw, and carrot “candy” with horseradish. That was after he left The Royce at the Langham hotel, where he received four stars from our own Patric Kuh, and Cafe Pinot.
At Wally’s, expect more of the former’s liveliness and less of the latter’s formality. Féau’s new menus, which span lunch, dinner and late-night—this is a hot spot for local sommeliers and servers from some of Beverly Hills’ most notable restaurants to stop in after their own restaurants close—are exceptionally wine-friendly. This is, after all, an offshoot of one of the most respected wine shops in the country. He also incorporates a great deal of products you’d find in the Wally’s gourmet shop.
But it’s not the typical nibbles you’d expect for a wine bar. There’s homemade tagliatelle with toasted garlic, black peppercorn, baby spinach, green tomato jam, and Calocno pecorino cheese; Alaskan halibut with olive oil herbed mashed potatoes, purple carrots and basil; braised pork belly with sweet peas and roasted plum sauce; and a boneless chicken jambonette with a 63-degree poached egg and ramps escabeche. Of course you can add truffles to anything and get a full caviar service. This is Wally’s.
There are more small plates than entrees, things for the table to share over a bottle of wine or two (all of which, by the way, you can also purchase from the shop for home), like sea bass carpaccio marinated in pickled beet juice with fennel, uni and shaved button mushrooms; grilled octopus with piquillo puree and pickled baby tomatillos; and foie gras terrine with rhubarb compote. There’s even a burger made with Wagyu beef, aged Old Amsterdam cheese, watercress, heirloom tomato, and caramelized onions.
The restaurant and retail shop opened in late 2014 and had its fans from the beginning. But no one was talking about the food menu as much as the 3,000 bottles of vino at Wally’s disposal—and pay retail price, to boot (plus $40). Feau is poised to flip that script.
Wally’s opens daily from 10am-2am.
Wally’s, 447 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310-458-1141