Bite of the Week: Shrimp Remoulade Roll at Cape Seafood and Provisions

An up-close look at our editors’ favorite bites from around the city

What: A split-top, New England-style hot dog bun—the kind with no crust on the sides so it can absorb an obscene amount of butter in the griddling process—stuffed with rough-diced shrimp and a whole grain mustard-spiked remoulade.

Where: Cape Seafood and Provisions, chef Michael Cimarusti’s new fish market and larder in the old Lindy & Grundy space on Fairfax.

When: Wednesday at 2:00 p.m. when the traffic on Fairfax is juuuuuuuuust enough above walking pace for you to justify jumping in your car.

The Final Bite: This was one of the three items I ate (they were shared among coworkers) during my Cape Seafood pilgrimage, alongside a cup of sea scallop gumbo and a classic lobster roll. And they were all really, really point. Why does the shrimp remoulade roll get the cover shot? Selfish (shellfish???) reasons, really—mayonnaise-based condiments are my jam. But with all the lunch specials that day, you can really tell the Cimarusti-led squad has deep respect and knowledge for the produce. The scallops in the gumbo were cooked just past jelly-like translucence, the shrimp chunks perfectly springy and sweet, and the lobster roll—at $14, it’s the same price you’re paying at (insert lobster roll food truck here)—was a study in butter and shellfish synergy.