This month, if there’s one kind of poultry we’re eating more of than turkey, it’s chicken wings.
A football fan’s hands should be free to shove into foam fingers and to grasp beer receptacles—not be coated in chicken grease and hot sauce. Yet this is the state in which we find ourselves, as [your team’s name here] vies for the play-offs and we seek sustenance inchicken wings. The already-crowded local field welcomes some rookies worth cheering for.
The Hot Seat: In Thai, “hey-ha” is an onomatopoeic way to talk about partying. That’s how the hey-ha wings that Kris Yenbamroong cooks at Night + Market became known simply as “party wings” at his latest restaurant, Night + Market Song in Silver Lake. The festive vibes come courtesy of fish sauce, palm sugar, and Thai chiles. > 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake.
The Buzzer: Ricardo Lopez’s Korean-style wings at Brilliantshine (see New Restaurants) are cooked sous-vide before they’re fried and tossed in a sauce made with gochujang (fermented red pepper paste) and the Peruvian pepper aji amarillo. A finished pair is served on kale—be-cause this is Santa Monica. > 522 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica.
The Sugarfoot: Yes, there’s cocoa in the signature coating on the wings at Choco Chicken, but it’s just one of 20-plus spices in the molelike crust. They’re available in regular and supersize, as if that’s a choice. > 403 W. 12th St., downtown.
The Wild Card: Among the offbeat varieties at Ian Angeles’s Buff Wings are the mozzarella and marinara-covered pizza wings and the street cart-inspired elote wings. The oddball award, though, goes to the PB&J wings, which are slathered in sriracha, soy sauce, peanut butter, and grape jelly—no crust. > 325 N. Verdugo Rd., Glendale.