For the Best Pupusas in Town, You Have to Go to Church

Worship at the house of legit Central American food

Some of you only go to the San Gabriel Valley for Chinese food; others won’t even touch a slice of pizza or a bagel unless they’re in New York (snobs!) Me? I only get my pupusas at legit pupuserias, and in most cases here in L.A., that means going to church.

In the Central American community, worship comes with pupusas, and you’ll find some of the best at the southwest corner of East Olympic and South Sunol Drive, where believers and non-believers find common ground in the comfort of a thick round of masa.

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Just look for the banner that says “Pupusas” and you’ll see a crowd that has been growing each week for the doughy delights. They’re made to order on a picnic bench covered with a canopy, just in earshot of the sounds of L.A. gridlock coming from the 5 and 710.

The selections are standard: loroco (a bitter flower), chicharron, beans and cheese and revuelta (chicharron, beans and cheese) that are cooked on a comal until cheese oozes from the pupusa onto the griddle. The well-seasoned salsa de tomate  and the curtido (pickled cabbage) are a pair of tasty dressings for your selection of pupusas served in a basket. It’s a divine trio of flavors that’ll fill your soul with gladness—church is optional.