You know that sinking feeling: A few bites into that impressive hunk of meat you’ve ordered, and you’re already lamenting the wad of dough you’re spending on it. Next time try the bistecca fiorentina from Chi Spacca. And what does $220 buy you? A 50-ounce dry-aged Black Angus porterhouse that is slowly grilled, upright on the bone, to a pretty pink. A drizzle of bright olive oil and crunchy flakes of salt are just the right finishing touches for a steak that never disappoints.