Granted, LA’s baguettes aren’t as traditional as those at a Parisian boulangerie, reflecting instead the individual talents of local bakers, but that’s a good thing. Some versions are fluffy inside with a shattering crust; some have the tang of sourdough. Others are hearty with California-grown wheat. But none beckons a dab of quality French butter more than those produced by Colleen DeLee and sold at the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills Wednesday through Sunday. The self-taught baker turns out tender golden batons with just the right chew. We’re not the only ones obsessed: Ludovic Lefebvre won’t serve any other baguette at his French bistro, Petit Trois.