When it comes to hot dogs, the bacon-wrapped Sonoran dog, or dogo, is one promiscuous wiener. It gets topped with anything from chopped vegetables to mushrooms in cream sauce to nacho cheese to crushed chips. But the Sonoran hot dog’s defining characteristic is the strip of rendered pork fat (you might call it bacon) that wraps the frank before it’s served in a soft split bun.
If any of this sounds good to you—which, if you’re a breathing human, it should—head to Paramount and follow your nose through a small gap between a high wooden fence and a pick-up truck. There, you’ll find the dimly lit backyard operation known as Dogos Sonora.
Sure, “seating” is made up of a pair of old picnic benches covered with plastic, and the only illumination comes from a dull exposed bulb hanging by the back door of a house. But you’ll also find a small grill loaded with some of the city’s finest over-the-topped, bacon-wrapped franks.
There’s the dogo clasico which comes with a creamy avocado sauce and a crunchy layer of crushed Ruffles Queso—yeah, the cheese kind. The jumbo version comes with a bonus layer of bright-orange, liquid nacho cheese, and the Chile Dogo features a a roasted and peeled Anaheim chili pepper strapped to the dog by tightly wrapped bacon. The bacon and chili pepper cut through the layers of fresh, crisp, crunch, and if you want some heat, just add on the torito—a bacon wrapped chile relleno made with a white chile güero and stuffed with cheese.
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If they give you a strange look—which they probably will if you’re not from the neighborhood—don’t worry about it. Just tell them you found ‘em on Instagram and dig in.
Dogos Sonora, 8024 Alhambra Ave., Paramount, -562-293-8746, Friday nights and some Saturdays