No other American city can lay claim to such a delicious and varied slate of three-bite delights. From crunchy shrimp to luscious oxtail, here are 25 of the finest things to hit a tortilla this side of TJ.
Carnitas Tacos — Carnitas El MomoÂ
Tender cuts of sticky confit pork are nestled in corn tortillas alongside pickled jalapeños. 2411 Fairmount St, Boyle Heights, 323-627-8540; Saturdays: Alameda St. near 135th, Compton; Saturdays and Sundays: 6015 S Avalon, Florence
Oxtail and Foie Gras Taco — Guerrilla Tacos
Since its re-legalization, foie gras has ranked high among the gourmet ingredients flung from this truck’s window. Here it joins braised oxtail on warm tortillas.
Beef Birria Burrito — Burritos La Palma
Yep, burritos—these traditionally petite ones anyway—are tacos! Hand-pressed flour tortillas cling to a powerful beef stew emboldened by dried chiles. 5120 N. Peck Rd., El Monte, 626-350-8286
Shrimp Tacos Dorados — Mariscos JaliscoÂ
 A time-honored favorite, the fried shrimp taco (as in the taco is fried until it crackles) is drowned in a mild pepper salsa. 3040 E Olympic Blvd., Boyle Heights, 323-528-6701
Omega-2 Taco — Tacos QuetzalcoatlÂ
A handmade corn tortilla supports the truck’s meat-free stew of sautéed greens, mushrooms, and fried cheese. Olympic Bl. near S. La Verne, East LA
Lamb Barbacoa Taco — Aqui Es Texcoco
Tender cuts of pit-roasted rib, shoulder, and head come wrapped in a fresh tortilla with pulque-spiked salsa. 5850 S Eastern Ave., Commerce, 323-725-1429
Fish Taco — Ricky’s Fish Tacos
In a fedora, Ricky doles out just the right amounts of crema agricola and cabbage to brighten his tempura-battered whitefish fillets. 3201 Riverside Dr., Los Angeles 90027
Carne Asada Taco — Tire Shop TaquerĂa
Chunks of steak grilled over mesquite are finished with creamy guacamole and salsa on a handmade tortilla. 4069 S Avalon Bl., Historic South Central
Chorreadas — Tacos La Carreta
At another tire shop destination, Mazatlán-style carne asada starts with a thick tortilla covered in hot lard and melted cheese, then steak, veggies and salsas piled high. 413 N Wilmington Ave., Compton, 562-500-5581
Octopus Taco — Petty Cash Taqueria
A wafer of fried jack cheese sits beneath a charcoal-grilled tentacle drizzled with chile de arbol. 7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, 323-933-5300
Daily Special — Tacos Punta CabrasÂ
Whatever these boys cook—be it king mushroom with bonito flakes or duck with foie gras parfait—it’s always a hit. 2311 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, 310-917-2244
Cecina Taco — Tacos CuernavacaÂ
Cecina, or salt-cured meat, is a specialty in Southern Mexico. These taqueros slice it thin and serve it with a nutty chile de arbol salsa. Whittier Blvd. & Eastmont Ave., East Los Angeles, 323-377-4603
Goat BirrĂa Taco — Birrieria Nochistlán
Braised goat meat provides the bulk in this messy stew of chiles and spices; the scorching salsa roja is for hard-core palates only. 3200 E 4th St, Boyle Heights, 323-268-0319
Smoked Marlin Taco — Coni’SeafoodÂ
Who says you can’t have cheese with fish? A layer of the melted stuff blankets fatty marlin stewed with peppers, onions, and tomatoes. 3544 W. Imperial Hwy, Inglewood, 310-672-2339
Cochinita Pibil Taco — Chichén Itzá
The subtly sweet note of banana leaf permeates each bite of the restaurant’s famed Yucatán-style roasted pork. 3655 S. Grand Ave, Historic South Central, 213-741-1075
Rosarito Beach-Style Carne Asada Taco —  Loqui
Take handmade flour tortillas rolled by a Tartine Bakery alum and mix them with the flavors of Rosarito Beach—mesquite grilled steak, pot beans, guacamole, and salsa—and you’ve got Spring Break on a tortilla. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City
Modern Mexican Tacos — Taco MarĂa
Squid ink tints the heirloom corn tortilla, which is filled with fresh squid, toasted peanuts, and purslane. SoCo Collection, 3313 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa, 714-538-8444
Al Pastor Taco — Leo’s Taco Truck
These Mid City spitmasters dominate L.A.’s al pastor scene, ensuring that plenty of pineapple joins juicy hunks of caramelized pork. 1515 S La Brea Ave, Mid-City, 323-346-2001
Sea Urchin Chile Güero Taco — Cacao Mexicatessen
A chile relleno taco on its own would be something, but this version—starring a fried chile güero—is amped with fresh uni. 1576 Colorado Blvd, Eagle Rock, 323-478-2791
Goat Barbacoa Taco — Gish Bac
Three generations of expertise go into a pot of slow-roasted, chile-rubbed goat, ready for DIY assembly. 4163 W Washington Blvd, Arlington Heights, (323) 737-5050
Clam and Lardo Taco — B.S. TaquerĂa
Luscious strips of pure white pork fat mingle with buttery Manila clams for an elegant twist on surf and turf. 514 W 7th St, DTLA, 213-622-3744
Tongue Taco — Colonia Tacos Guisados
Delicate, flavorful thin-sliced tongue gets an Alta California update with creamy Sriracha mayo and a bright guacamole. 11114 Whittier Blvd., Whittier, 562-699-2424
Relleno Negro Taco — La Flor De Yucatan
Let’s talk turkey…tacos, here cooked in a black achiote paste that’s heady with toasted chiles and spices. 1800 S Hoover St, Pico-Union, 213-748-6090
Chorizo “Cachetada” — Mexicali Taco & Co.
Devotees line up for what translates to a “slap on the cheek” of molten cheese, chorizo, and a fried egg. 702 N Figueroa St, Chinatown, 213-613-0416
Tacos Arabes — Los Originales Tacos Arabes De Puebla
A pita-like flour tortilla imported from Puebla envelops spiced lamb doused in chipotle salsa. 3549 Olympic Bl., Boyle Heights
Photographs by Damon Caserez and Bill Esparza
