Because Kogi Won’t Come to Your House


This month brings The Truck Food Cookbook, by John T. Edge (Workman Publishing), and L.A. favorites are well represented. Edge spent many mornings in a lot under the 10 freeway, watching the day’s preparations unfold. “Vendors were loading workingmen’s trucks with coils of chorizo,” he says, while a fleet of Kogi trucks would line up “the way Rolls-Royces used to do at Ma Maison.”