In a town where a shopping mall qualifies as historic, few businesses enjoy the lasting patronage bestowed on Philippe the Original, home of what may or may not be the first French dip sandwich. The 117-year-old restaurant has moved several times over the decades—most recently in 1951—and customers have followed. Veteran patrons call the current location on Alameda Street “the new place.” Standing behind the cigarette counter circa 1965 (inset), owner Frank “Pappy” Martin was known for working long hours (and for his signature suspenders). He died a few years later, but his family has carried on the tradition of absolute stasis. Occasionally there’s a glimmer of progress: The younger generation has entertained the idea of a food truck.