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ONE MORE THING

The Move: Ceci’s Gastronomia
“The move” is a turn of phrase I use quite often. “What’s the move at Tsbuaki?” I would ask a fellow writer who has been there, or I might text “Get the eggplant parm. That’s the move,” to a friend going to Ggiata. The move is what you should order if you’re going to a restaurant for the first time. It’s a confident and can’t fail recommendation, but also an assessment of the best a restaurant has to offer. It can be a standout dish, a list of appetizers, or a specific ordering combination (the sandwich, a blood orange soda and a bag of Tim’s at Roma Market, for example), but the move often stretches past the food. It encompasses the situation, the hours of operation, whether that place does lunch or dinner better, or sometimes it can pertain to exactly who is working in the kitchen on a given night. The move is a specific set of instructions, a shared reconnaissance, and a kind of shorthand I give friends to have the best experience possible. Usually, divulging the move comes in the form of a text message, of which I send many. Maybe that’s what this column is—a protracted text message to a dear friend (you, the reader).
So this is a series called The Move. First up is Ceci’s Gastronomia, a cozy and picturesque Italian spot in Silverlake, of which I am a regular.
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