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South American

Atlacatl

301 N. Berendo St, Los Angeles, CA, 90004

323-663-1404

The interior of this Salvadoran landmark, a former residence on the fringes of East Hollywood, is as frumpy as Grandma’s house…

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Beba’s

6024 Hazeltine Avenue, Los Angeles, CA, 91401

(818) 786-1511

The one and only Bolivian restaurant in Los Angeles County happens to be a remarkably comfy place to experience the much lauded sal-teñas: sweet-and-savory meat pies made with eggs and raisins. (They taste better than they sound, we swear.)

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El Rocoto

11433 South Street, Los Angeles, CA, 90703

(562) 924-1919

At El Rocoto, Inca-worthy recipes use traditional tubers, Andean grains, and the fragrant lúcuma fruit, while standards including ceviche, lomo saltado, and papas huancaina are artfully executed.

Website: https://elrocoto.com

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La Cevicheria

3809 West Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA, 90019

(323) 732-1253

Central America’s singular rendition of ceviche involves the famously indelicate bloody clam known as mule’s foot, or pata de mula. This Guatemalan seafood shrine serves goblets of the pungent mollusk set off by bits of mint and diced tomato.

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Los Balcones del Perú

1360 Vine St., Los Angeles, CA, 90028

323-871-9600

Of all the great dishes at this stronghold of Peruvian cuisine—like the warm, hominy-studded, chile-spiked shrimp ceviche known as camarones a la piedra…

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Pollo a la Brasa

764 S. Western Ave., Los Angeles, CA, 90005

213-382-4090

More woodpile than restaurant, this weathered Peruvian-style chicken stand serves the smokiest bird in L.A….

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Puro Sabor

6366 Van Nuys Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA, 91401

818-908-0818

The flavors of Peru have been popping up everywhere lately, from Beverly Hills to Hollywood. The country’s lively cuisine is nothing new to Angelenos in the know, who for years have been hitting up this Valley standout for ceviches and the sweet pumpkin doughnuts known as picarones.

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Rincon Chileno Deli

15418 Hawthorne Blvd # B, Los Angeles, CA, 90260

(310) 349-2091

The South Bay branch of this Chilean favorite features a pared-down menu and seriously inspired cooking. Empanadas the size of a ladies’ clutch are loaded with chicken, hard-boiled eggs, and sweet peppers.

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Sarita’s Pupusería

317 S. Broadway, E5-6, Los Angeles, CA, 90013

213-437-0100

The draw here is the freshly made Salvadoran pupusas: fat, chewy tortillas ($2) filled with ingredients like mild cheese or pinto beans…

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