A tandoor as large and hot as a jet engine is the centerpiece of this Pakistani and Indian gem. Disks of buttery naan emerge looking like Neapolitan pizzas. Bright orange chicken quarters arrive whole on a sizzling plate or chopped up and drenched in curry sauce.
Strips of bread dough tightly seal the lids on massive cooking pots at Bawarchi Indian Kitchen in Culver City, where chef Amarpal Sabherwal puts his colorful spin on the classic north Indian cooking technique known as dum pukht.
Well-prepared vegetarian choices abound in Little India, but at Surati Farsan Mart, the newly expanded Gujarati chaat house, the small plates rival those at any tony temple of modern cuisine.