Best of LA: Eat
Let go of any misgivings you have about buffets: the steaming vats, grisly carving stations, hepatitis C. TRES BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS at SLS Beverly Hills pulls off a $42 brunch spread without a lick of ick. Andrés’s approach might best be called minimalist. Quail eggs accompany sliced-on-demand Russ & Daughters smoked salmon. Crab claws are […]
Masters of Mexican barbecue, or barbacoa, know that the best meat is roasted in an underground pit. But try telling that to the health department. Former engineer Paco Perez, chef-owner of AQUI ES TEXCOCO in Commerce, invented an oven that mimics subterranean cooking. The result is succulent lamb barbecue flavored with century plant and avocado […]
Lately we’ve seen renewed interest in the brownie’s nutty, cocoa-free cousin. Connie & Ted’s dessert menu has a knee-weakening version à la mode, but CAKE MONKEY BAKERY gets our top vote. Its dense, pecan-studded square is as salty as it is sweet and crowned with a layer of toffee.
Ooey-Gooey flavor-bomb egg sandwiches are la mode, but at the Sycamore Kitchen, Quinn and Karen Hatfield have come up with a stacked morning meal that’s as approachable as it is craveable. For their SCRAMBLED EGG AND CHORIZO SANDWICH, fluffy eggs, melted Swiss cheese, house-made chorizo, and roasted onions unite in one supersavory bite after another. […]
On Saturdays A slow-moving line of families dressed for through a small Westside storefront. The wait is worth it, as the strawberry shortcake at ANGEL MAID BAKERY is so fluffy, so lushly enrobed in semi-sweet whipped cream and chock-full of ripe strawberry nuggets, it’ll convert any member of the butter-cream-or-bust crowd. A seven-inch round cake, […]
During the omakase cocktail experience at Koreatown’s WALKER INN, bartenders don’t merely mix and serve; they educate and pamper. Menus, which have such rotating themes as “Wet Hot American Summer,” include refreshments garnished with “fog” or packaged in juice boxes. Instagram isn’t going to cut it—you’ll want to Snapchat the entire story.
Thicker than A bangle but less bulky than your uncle’s class ring, the calamari at CECCONI’S WEST HOLLYWOOD are gifts from the deep, wrapped in golden paper. The width of the squid sections is key, allowing each bite to hold a splash of lemon or a dab of tartar sauce while packing a marine tang.
The bite-size potato dumplings at PISTOLA hit the right balance between chewy and supple. While the doughy bits remain constant, what they’re dressed in evolves: They might sop up a deep marsala gravy in winter or a buttery parmesan sauce with wild mushrooms and asparagus in spring.
Barflies know that the wee hours bring a cornucopia of discount grub and booze. After 10 p.m. the BACKHOUSE in West L.A. fills buzzed bellies with yakitori— grilled morsels like chicken livers and bacon-wrapped okra (from $1.75)—plus fried appetizers like karaage (for as much as $3 off). Raw bar deals feature oysters, sushi, and salmon […]
Amir and Pnina Simyonov have run the kosher cubbyhole HABAYIT for nearly two decades. Their herb-flecked chicken soup’s amber broth has just enough sheen to signal home cooking. Unlike many restaurant matzo balls, which seem like science fair experiments in volume displacement, the ones here are delicate orbs, nestled among carrots as tender as a […]
The cocoa at CACAO MEXICATESSEN is prepared with the same precision as the Eagle Rock restaurant’s famous carnitas de pato and handmade tortillas. Disks of cinnamon-infused Oaxacan chocolate are melted down to a rich syrup and combined with steamed milk via an espresso machine and some fancy wrist work. A flurry of chile powder adds […]