If there are fewer little-known pasta shapes on the menu here, it’s because Gino Angelini doesn’t have to prove his bona fides. He grew up on the green lasagna his grandma made in Rimini and came to L.A. to help Mauro Vincenti open Rex in the mid-’90s. The naturalness of his style may be why the Italian bonhomie is palpable in this tight dining room, where tables are full day and night. Gino is not above finishing a crostino of lardo with white truffle shavings, but his wheelhouse is a more understated realm: The soup is thick with soft cubed potatoes, tripe is buoyed by a slow-cooked soffritto, and all those veal kidneys need is cooked-down onions and a splash of white wine. It’s a farmhouse sensibility elevated by a master’s touch.