No. 73: The Hungry Cat

Hollywood
195

Though the Hungry Cat is at Sunset and Vine, its pulse is not of Hollywood but of some inlet where everyone’s wearing cutoffs and sun-bleached baseball caps. David Lentz grew up sailing the Chesapeake, and his cooking has an unstudied exactitude that comes from dealing with impeccable seafood. Bay scallop ceviche needs only a flash of sriracha; merguez sausage and clams benefit from a piece of bread still warm from the grill. There’s a right way to do things; that—and no more—is what a fish cook must do.

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