No. 71: Papilles

Photograph courtesy

The retro-cool French bistronomie movement that’s sweeping Paris may be the lodestar of Papilles, but the restaurant renders a very L.A. interpretation. Near the 101 on-ramp, conversation buzzes in a tight room adorned with garage sale paintings and, until recently, a crossed-out sign noting the price of foie gras. With the no-nonsense cooking of Tim Carey and most of the wine bottles in the under-$50 sweet spot, Papilles has become the indispensable back-pocket Hollywood hub for a piping-hot bowl of leek-and-potato velouté, a well-edited cheese board, and a glass of unfiltered red Arbois. The rillettes are nice and chunky; a shellfish broth laps the edges of seared black bass.  

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