The seafood platter with a lip of iced Wellfleets, the aproned garçon pouring sauvignon blanc. These are rituals a diner can get used to. Intimate? No, it’s a fish house on a grand scale. Considered? Probably not the right term to describe stacked helpings of stone crab claws laden with mustard sauce. Water Grill is not about big issues but about big-ticket enjoyment. There’s just enough farmed sea bass on the menu to make you feel OK about all the scaly creatures flown in from Brittany and the Barents Sea. And chef Damon Gordon knows just how to make everything shine.