Zoe Nathan’s pies—like those of another L.A. pizza queen—are more reminiscent of artisan bread than anything Naples could brag about. At the most Italian-influenced of the restaurants she shares with husband Josh Loeb, Nathan tops crunchy rounds of glutinous satisfaction with pork-belly sausage or an abundance of wild mushrooms. Honey-date butter drips off chunks of vanilla-painted butternut squash and crushed hazelnuts. A tangle of wild arugula transcends salad status, cradling a briny trifecta of fried capers, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and anchovy dressing. On any given evening the two communal tables and the marble counter are an ebullient mess of crumbs, elbows, half-full wineglasses, and happy chatter. And that’s before dessert.