No. 66: Petty Cash

Beverly Grove
639

The cooking at this boisterous Tijuana-inspired taquería can be as subtle as a sledgehammer. Guacamole is topped with layers of sea urchin and scooped up with chicharrónes; happy hour nachos are taken to the stoner extreme with crunchy tangles of fried pig’s ear and slow-poached eggs. But the molcajetes of aguachile—pristine seafood floating in a house-made “Clamato” broth enlivened with wild Sonoran peppercorns—allude to the grace chef Walter Manzke and his crew infuse into the machismo. Soft tortillas, patted by hand in the open kitchen, are just as good with butter and salt as they are filled with Modelo-battered fish and shaved al pastor.  

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