The Ace hotel’s lobby bistro is outfitted with checkered tiles and brass tables that recall Gatsby-era Paris. The room is as chic as the crowds that frequent it, as they brunch on buckwheat waffles or lounge with a cocktail in the mezzanine. But behind the good looks of Ken Addington’s and Micah Fields’s dishes lies ambition. Ebony strands of squid ink pasta are tossed with brandied tuna butter and red chilies, then crowned with uni. Braised rabbit with mushrooms is draped over creamy semolina, juxtaposed with shaved radish and wood sorrel. This is not what you expect from hotel cooking.