No. 62: Tavern

Brentwood
360
Photograph courtesy facebok.com/tavernlosangeles

It’s the newest of Suzanne Goin’s fine-dining establishments, but it feels like her most timeless. There’s a nod to Old Hollywood here, from the atrium populated with famous folks to the menu, which skews vintage with her versions of “devils on horseback,” Gulf shrimp cocktail, and Julia Child’s sinus-clearing ode to Dijon, Devil’s Chicken. Tavern’s casual larder could be Goin’s most significant contribution to the L.A. food scene: You’ll never look at a sandwich the same way again.  

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