Chef Don Dickman rode L.A.’s first small-plates wave; the seeming lack of affectation in his Mediterranean menu bears the stamp of maturity. A meal at this nonchalant wine bar might be composed of jamon iberíco, a few grilled stalks of chile-spiked broccolini, and a lemony nest of chitarra with pencil-thin asparagus. Co-owner Claudio Blotta’s welcome is the kind you’d expect from a Campanile alumnus, and his selection of wines by the glass is neither your standard array of crowd pleasers nor a trendy set of cult labels. Like everything else at Barbrix, it’s just right. Beneath the strings of lights that lazily droop above the front patio, neighbors become regulars.