Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, and Nancy Silverton’s osteria and pizzeria share a street corner, but their true link is chef Matt Molina’s fearless culinary approach at both. The osteria aims for big-city elegance (without any schmaltzy Rat Pack appeals), finding space in the dining room for a marble bar devoted to the liqueur Amaro as well as an Italian cheese counter where you can order as little as burricotta with radicchio. But most people opt for more, delighting in lacquered sweetbread piccata or short ribs with fresh horseradish grated tableside. Next door it’s about wood-fired pizzas with billowing thin crusts that counterpoint such hearty toppings as stinging nettles and fennel sausage. Still, a dish of the day like stewed salt cod baccala al forno lures you into the deeper waters of Italian food.